Saint Laurent shows the Fall Winter 2023 collection in Tadao Ando’s renovated Bourse de Commerce

Saint Laurent shows the Fall Winter 2023 collection in Tadao Ando’s renovated Bourse de Commerce

French fashion house Saint Laurent debuted its Fall Winter 2023 ready-to-wear collection at Paris’s historic Bourse de Commerce, recently renovated by Japanese architect Tadao Ando.

The Saint Laurent show took place inside the Paris art museum on the evening of 17 January 2023 and marked the first Saint Laurent menswear show in Paris under its current creative director, Anthony Vaccarello.

Saint Laurent presented its Autumn-Winter 2023 collection at Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection

Located inside the rotunda of the Bourse de Commerce – Pinault, restored in Ando, ​​the show kicked off on the first day of the Paris Fashion Week Autumn Winter 2023 menswear season.

A continuous series of seats, in the form of a modular, black leather De Sede DS-600 sofa, went around the entire perimeter of Ando’s cylindrical wall-cum-concrete exhibition space 29 meters wide and nine meters high.

A plush carpet with a stone lap covered the floor of the circular room below the show’s runway and leather-covered audience seats.

Interior image of the Saint Laurent show
The collection debuted at Paris Fashion Week

“Art and Saint Laurent have been brought together from the beginning, making the radical structure-within-a-structure of the Japanese architect Tadao Ando a natural setting for tonight’s concise and personal presentation,” Saint Laurent said in the show notes.

“The glowing concrete cylinder echoes the luminous circle at the center of the brand’s last menswear show, almost without realizing it, the O shape, symbol of perfection and purity of execution, becomes a recurring, relevant thread at Saint Laurent.”

Image of the Saint Laurent show
It was held within Tadao Ando’s tubular concrete exhibition space

The interior was briefly lit with spotlights arranged regularly along the walls of the concrete space behind the single row of seats.

A grand piano, skewed off-centre, was placed in the center of the exhibition space under the 19th-century mural that adorns the ceiling of the glass-oculus rotunda.

Under Ando’s three-year restoration and renovation, the architect placed the tubular monolithic concrete volume within the glass-domed rotunda at the heart of the building, which also doubles as a viewing platform accessed by a staircase that runs along the outside of the wall. .

The cylindrical concrete volume extends into the basement of the building and forms a large auditorium and connects the ground floor of the rotunda with the upper levels of the building, which has been similarly restored and renovated by the studio.

French businessman and founder of the Kering luxury group owned by François Pinault Saint Laurent commissioned the renovation and restoration project in 2017 to showcase his collection of around 5,000 works of art.

Inside image of a piano at the Saint Laurent show
A carpet and a De Sede DS-600 curved sofa were placed inside the rotunda

Vaccarello explained that the show served as a sequel to his Spring Summer 2023 show in the Moroccan desert in which London artist and set designer Es Devlin installed a circular pond and shimmering ring among the red sand dunes of the Afagay desert.

“A sequel to the previous seasons, the latest Saint Laurent collection presents the evolutionary vision of Anthony Vaccarello in the rotunda of the Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection,” he said.

Interior image of the Bouse de Commerce at the Saint Laurent show
Ando’s restoration and renovation of the building was a three-year project

Vaccarello donned hooded garments and floor-sweeping coats during the show, notably seen in his Spring Summer 2023 womenswear show in 2022.

By replicating such a silhouette, Vaccarello explained that his menswear and womenswear under Saint Laurent were interchangeable.

“I want them to be almost one,” he told Vogue. “The man goes to the women and the woman goes to the men.”

Image of a model at the show
The collection included silhouettes from the previous womenswear collection

In 2021, American artist Doug Aitken built a kaleidoscopic installation runway, made up of mirrors and plants, for Saint Laurent’s Spring Summer 2022 show in Venice, Italy.

Photography courtesy of Saint Laurent.

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